Sunday, August 22, 2010

August 22nd: Lembongan Island

Today I woke up, had breakfast, and repacked before I checked out of the Watering Hole in Sanur and was picked up by my Scoot speed boat shuttle. They drove me the very short distance to the beach and carried my bags. Now, the speed boat is the fastest way to get to Lembongan but I doubt it's the most pleasant. The fumes are noxious and it's a fast and bumpy ride. Don't eat a big breakfast like me before.
As we arrived in Lembongan, at first I was beginning to reprimand myself for even wanting to come (you have a lot of internal dialogue when you travel alone). This isn't that great, I thought. And it's a lot of hassle to get here. And I only want to spend one night. Everyone thinks that's strange and not enough time to stay.
Well I'm really glad I came, and once you see the pictures you'll understand. The Scoot boat people helped me find a pretty cheap, budget-range hotel. It's not on the beach like most but it's about 30 seconds away, and it's lovely and well-kept. Everything is carefully tended and cleaned, and like most here it's a homestay of sorts- the family decided to build some bungalows on their property. It's beautiful and I sort of feel bad that I'm the only person staying here at the moment.
I set out, with my map and my Lonely Planet, for Mushroom Bay Beach first. I followed the coast from the budget accomodation area, walking along the beach full of fishing boats and past the speed boat drop off. Then I walked through the villas area, which had a nice view down the cliff, and down to a small beach. Gorgeous already- white sand, clear water. Then I hiked up a path and around to another small beach area. I had to keep following the coast and then ask for directions to Mushroom Bay. I took a dirt trail up a hill and then smelled ocean. There was a cliff and a small, sort of enclosed beach. This didn't seem to be the main beach but it was beautiful. So I scrambled down the cliff like a monkey and stopped for a dip in the clear blue waves and a rest in the sand. Secret Beach.
I then headed back up, and got lost a bit before I found Mushroom Beach, which the Secret Beach (this is my name, not an official one) is right next to and must be a part of. Mushroom Beach has restaurants and hotels and boats. I ate lunch on the beach with a perfect view. Indonesian satay with fresh fish. After lunch I went to hang out at Secret Beach for a while, since it was nice and quiet with no hotels or restaurants. I discovered the tide was coming in and you could walk around the cliff instead of scrambling up and down to get into Secret Beach, which was easier.
Then I decided to look for Dream Beach, another beach on my map. I headed to the main, paved road of the village (only motorbikes though) and walked for a while. I passed houses and cows and roosters and palm trees and old women farming. It was a cool walk. There are white pointy signs that tell you the way to Dream Beach. I followed them and eventually made it.
I hung out at Dream Beach for a bit. It's another small white sand beach with an expansive view of the choppy waves. Then I decided to find Devil's Tear. I saw another small white sign for it, and Wikitravel had told me it was a cool landmark. I followed a dirt path. This is probably my favorite part of today. The whole Devil's Tear cliffside area. The cliff juts out and waves pound a small inlet. It's the most incredible aquamarine color I've ever seen in nature. It's amazing. Plus when I was out there very view people were around. I spent a good part of the time standing on the cliff alone, being cooled by the mist from the pounding waves.
Actually Lembongan hardly feels crowded. There are lots of tourists but on my walk around the island it was pretty solitary and quiet except for clucks and moos from the animals. The people are friendly and cute kids say “hello” (though some of them are trying to sell you a seashell).
I think Lembongan was definitely worth it for just one night. I did my hike around the island, which was really enjoyable. I ate dinner at around sunset next to the beach. Now I'm on the porch of my lovely bungalow, with the family cleaning up dinner and listening to the nighttime insects and animals. The weather is lovely. What a cool place to visit, really.

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